Tom's Guide to Paris

Eating in Paris

Paris is justly known for its spectacular food, both highly refined and deliciously downscale. Here are some tips on getting the best out of eating in Paris.

Why go to Paris if you're not going to eat? Every once in a while, big newspapers and magazines in the US will run stories about the 3 or 4 "remaining affordable bistros in Paris," and they proceed to list places that cost upwards of 75 to 100 euros per person (or more). This is utter, unabashed balderdash, mostly meant to show off how plugged into the local scene the article's author is. And in fact, it shows the absolute contrary. The simple fact is that there are hundreds and hundreds of astonishingly good, inexpensive restaurants in Paris, and it's not difficult to find truly great meals in the 25 to 45 euro range. You can even find really good food for less than that (and three courses at one of my favorite restaurants in the world is still well 20 euros—see the "Left Bank Restaurants" page). All you have to do is read Tom's Guide, or, if you want to strike out on your own, just walk around a little, generally avoiding the big busy streets, and look at the menus posted outside the restaurants (but I can't imagine why you wouldn't want to read Tom's Guide). Go around the corner; peek inside a courtyard. Hop on the metro and choose a stop at random to get off at. You'll find something good. Every restaurant in Paris will display their menu out front, so you can walk around and inform yourself before you choose. Be daring, be bold, be assertive—eat. (And a New York Times article about restaurants in Paris that date back to the 19th century includes many which have been in Tom's Guide for almost that long [well, not quite]).

Why go to Paris if you're not going to eat?

Different types of restaurants

There are more sophisticated, strange, interesting, frightening, inexpensive, alternative, and/or charming restaurants in Paris than you can possibly imagine. If you hadn't waited so long to go to Paris, for example, you could have dined at the Casa Miguel, on the Rue St. Georges up near Pigalle. This is no longer open, but it was run for the longest time by a woman who was 88 years old if she was a day. Mme Miguel did all the cooking and most of the serving, and maybe that's how she kept her costs down: hers was the cheapest restaurant in France, with a Guinness certificate in the window to prove it. Last time I was there a three-course meal including beverage was only 5 francs (that's less than 1 euro)—and I'm not kidding. There was another unusual place we used to go to called Le Pendu (the Hanged Man) over in the 1st. There were absolutely no lights in the dining room; each table had a single candle on it, and each of the tables along the wall had a different small and gruesome painting of a hanged man right above it. You could barely make out the painting, and you could barely see your food (or the person across the table from you). It was quite sexy, actually. The thing is, there are scores of restaurants like this. Go find some more and then tell me about them. Most of the restaurants listed in these pages are inexpensive to moderate; there are a couple of big splurges, and they're designated as such. All of the ones listed in Tom's Guide have something to recommend them—food, ambiance, location, people, price.

Menus and such

There are a couple of things to remember when in a French restaurant: except for really expensive ones, most will offer at least one form of menu or prix fixe ("pree feeks"), which is a menu where everyone pays the same price, and you get a limited choice of appetizer, main course, dessert, etc. It's usually much more economical than going "à la carte," in which you choose your whole meal in what amounts to the American style. Note that the "menu" option is much more common in France than it is in the U.S. (most restaurants you'll end up at will have at least one, and sometimes two, at various price ranges) and that you'll eat very well this way—you shouldn't think of it as the cheap way out out of concern that you'll end up getting not very much or not very good food. Au contraire: you'll eat very well. You can more or less always go "à la carte," of course, but check to see whether the things you want aren't actually on the menu at a lower price—you'll find that quite often they are, and that you can save sometimes as much as ten euros or more this way. Just listen to me: order from the prix fixe menu and I bet you'll like it. (You'll occasionally see something like "+5 euros" next to an item on the prix fixe menu: that means if you order this item your bill will be increased by the number next to the plus sign, generally for an item that is more expensive or that requires significant extra preparation.)

Also common is the menu of the day on a slate board that will be either hanging on the wall, or brought directly to your table and propped up on a chair or something. You'll also note that a lot of Parisian restaurants are located in really interesting buildings. As an example, check out Tom's Guide reader Colin's review of L'Auberge Nicolas Flamel below...) And reader Stuart G. from New York reminds us that not all great eating experiences take place where you'd necessarily think: "Many museums have cafés and restaurants that serve excellent food in remarkable settings. My favorite is the tearoom at the Musée D'Orsay. It was originally the First Class waiting room and it's over the top ornate with amazing murals on the ceilings and huge crystal chandeliers. Don't miss it." (That's Stuart's photo of the tearoom here.)

Making the most of your experience

If you're going to a nice place, and especially on a weekend, make a reservation. If your French isn't great, don't worry. Try English if you must, but give your French a shot, too. You'll find people unexpectedly nice to you, especially if you follow the politeness tips here (hint: no matter what, always say "bonjour" before you say anything else). If you have a reservation, even if the place has empty tables, they will treat you significantly better, and at nice places the waiter or maître d' might even shake the hand of the person in whose name the reservation was made, since they'll consider you the host (but that doesn't stick you with the bill). Plus, it's just polite to reserve, since it helps the restaurant plan its shopping, its seating, and whatnot.

When you walk into a restaurant you will generally be greeted at the door, just as you would expect. Tell them how many people in your party, and if you have a preference about where you'd like to sit, tell them. Often you'll be asked if you would like an apéritif (a before-dinner drink). Have one. Most apéritifs aren't what you might be used to. Ask for a kir (black currant liqueur and white wine), a kir royal (same thing, but with champagne instead of white wine), an Americano (campari, vermouth, and club soda), or a Ricard (anise-flavored liqueur); or ask them what they have, or ask to see la carte (menu). Chill. You're going to enjoy yourself. (This photo of one of our courses at the Franco-Japanese restaurant Les Enfants Rouges was taken by my friend Ali.)

Le service

All the nonsense you've heard about French waiters being rude is just that: nonsense. A couple caveats, though. If you go to a bistro or brasserie, gruff service is part of the genre. It's not you; it's not them—this is just the way these restaurants go, so don't worry about it and certainly don't take offense. Some of the restaurants listed below are very fine, but you will not find there (or anywhere, for that matter) the obsequious service so annoying in a lot of American restaurants ("Hi, I'm Buffy, and I'll be taking care of you"). For the French, being a waiter or waitress is more of a career than it generally is in the U.S., and they take professionalism very seriously. You don't expect your dentist to say, "Hi, I'm Darrell, and I'll be filling your teeth today!" so the French feeling is, why should a waiter be silly and cloying?

Le service (tip) is virtually always included in the price of a meal in France (that's what the abbreviation S.C. means [service compris], and on some "menus" your beverage is, too, but that's not all that common (it'll say boisson [drink] comprise if it is, and there will be a list of choices). Even when service is included, it's always nice to leave a little something, especially if your waiter or waitress was especially good—a 3–5 euros is a nice gesture. No one eats before 7:00, and that's still really early, and not many people really eat before 8:30 in the summer—think more like 9:00 or later. But eat whenever you want. Virtually all restaurants accept whatever major credit card you may have, and yes, you can also pay with your phone.

Cooking customs

One of the things you may have to get used to is how meat is cooked and what you call it. Rare is saignant (saynyanh), medium is à point (a pweinh), and well done is bien cuit (byenh kwee). The thing is, though, is that each of these levels of cooking (cuisson) is more or less a step rarer than in the U.S. Thus, if you ask for something medium, it'll come a little closer to rare than you might be accustomed to. Rare—saignant—is really pretty reddish pink, and if you happen to like your meat really rare, ask for it bleu (bleuh)—but know what you're doing on this one, and if you're not hard core, don't try it. Interestingly, for lamb and veal, the cuisson for rare is "rosée."

Winding your meal up

You can always ask for a coffee at the end of the meal, which is fairly common. And note that waiters will generally not just bring you the check when they think you're done—you typically need to ask for it ("l'addition, s'il vous plaît" or, more simply, just say "la note" with a slightly raised voice. You may also find that if you don't finish your meal/course/whatever, the waiter might ask in a concerned tone whether you didn't like it. In this regard, French restaurants are like your mother—they expect you to clean your plate. But by all means, don't feel that you have to. If they do ask, simply say that you've eaten enough ("J'ai assez mangé"), or simply, "C'était bon" (it was good).

 

Left Bank Restaurants

After a trip to the Louvre or the Musée d'Orsay, or before a night out in the Latin Quarter, you'll love these restaurants on the left bank.

Many people going to Paris for the first time will be staying in the Latin Quarter or in that general vicinity, so we'll start with restaurants close to the river and then branch out, moving toward Odéon and Saint-Germain-des-Prés and then soutward.

The Latin Quarter (5th arrondissement)

Someplace Tom likes to go to a lot because it's always good, usually friendly, and feels just a little bit homey is Balzar, 49, rue des Ecoles (+33 1 23 45 67 89), metro Maubert Mutualité, Saint-Michel Notre Dame, or Luxembourg. This is one of those "last of the neighborhood bistros" that newspapers like the New York Times like to write about, and we seem, oddly enough, to be finding more and more of them. You'd think that this apparently dying breed would have fewer survivors, but there you have it. Balzar is very, very good, indeed. The service is usually attentive and sometimes wry (but on my last few visits it's been a little on the cool and detached side for some reason) and the owner tries to be cordial and will greet you, especially if you return. The food is precise and tasty, and you might even see a celebrity or two here if you're lucky. You'll do better here if you have a reservation. If you're alone, they might treat you a bit strangely; they should work on this. Expect to pay about 55-65€.

In the same general vicinity is the somewhat famous, and perhaps a little precious Petit Prince at 12, rue Lanneau in the 5th, Metro Maubert Mutualité (01 43 54 77 26). This is especially good food for the price, with an utterly charming ambiance and in an especially inviting neighborhood, and the restaurant also happens to be especially welcome to gay clientele. You're up the slope from the boulevard Saint Germain, the area where you have lots of little twisty streets. You'll like this—really. Tom says to check it out.

If the Petit Prince can't take you, go right across the tiny little pedestrian street (we're still on the rue Lanneau now) to number 11. There you'll find Le Coupe Chou, which you'll really want to know about. Call them at 01 46 33 68 69 to reserve. This is a totally charming place, with very friendly and helpful staff who will try to accommodate your every wish. Even if they have to move you, they'll do so in a way that is so charming you'll feel you're getting an even better table. If it's nice out, you really should dine al fresco on the tiny little pedestrian street (rue Lanneau), and they have beautiful lighting to make the experience all the more charming. They have a couple different, very reasonably priced menus (prix fixe), and you can also order à la carte. The pâté de campagne is especially good. You'll likely find your way out of here for about 35 euros. By the way, the "history" part of their web site is incredibly interesting.

Still in the Latin Quarter, but in the lovely, quieter section to the east, is the classy, comfortable, and charming Chez René (14, Boulevard Saint Germain, 5th [01 43 54 30 23; metro Maubert-Mutualité or Cardinal Lemoine]). Tom really loves this place. It has been around for almost 70 years, and it's easy to see why: the classic fare is carefully prepared and even more carefully served; it's relatively reasonably priced (probably between 40 and 50 euros for three courses plus beverages, including apéritif, but you can probably lighten that up somewhat); and the ambiance is muted and seductive. The waiters are friendly in that restrained way that I love about good French restaurants. You'll hear people speaking English in muted tones here: they're not tourists, so try to figure out their story. René really likes you to reserve. Some of the staff will get a bit uppity if you haven't, and they'll act a bit put out. Try to ignore their attitude.

Just around the corner from Chez René is a tiny place called Le Petit Pontoise. It's at 9, rue de Pontoise, also in the 5th (01 43 29 25 20); metro Cardinal Lemoine or Pont-Marie). The Petit Pontoise bills itself as "cuisine française traditionnelle," and that certainly seems true, but they do put a modern twist on many things. To the left is the really excellent Mille-feuille de chèvre et betteraves, which is a starter of layered beats, goat cheese, and other lovely things. The menu is inventive, with a surprisingly wide range of starters, meats, fish, poultry, and, um, dessert. The staff are extremely friendly, they will try (and generally succeed) to speak English, and if it's nice out you can sit outside on the quiet little street. If you're choosing between here and Chez René, this one's your bet.

And in the same neighborhood you'll like La Rôtisserie d'Argent, a terrific find situated at 19, Quai de la Tournelle (01.43.54.17.47, metro Pont Marie, Cardinal Lemoine, or Maubert-Mutualité). For those of you who have always wanted to try the Tour d'Argent but don't want to drop so many euros, this may be your next best bet—it's part of the same maison, as we say (get it? Rôtisserie d'Argent?). An extremely welcoming staff, pleasant and highly professional, will greet you in a crisp and simultaneously homey dining room. The menu (slate pictured at right) is quite traditional, exquisitely prepared, and tasty as heck. The wine list is unusually good as well. When the weather is nice they have tables out on the Pont de la Tournelle, which has a stunning view of Notre Dame, the Ile Saint-Louis, and part of the Ile de la Cité. There's also a very good boulangerie right next door that's part of the same maison.

Here's a place you might want to check out: Kitchen Ter(re), at 26 boulevard Saint-Germain (metro Maubert-Mutualité; 01 42 39 47 48). There are a couple of important things to know here: 1) there are two "kitchen" restaurants all run by the same chef, with Ze Kitchen Gallerie at 4, rue des Grands Augustins in the 6th (metro Saint-Michel Notre Dame or Mabillon). The two restaurants, taken together, present a series of puns in their names that is too complicated to go into here, but Kitchen Ter(re) was at the time the third of the "Kitchen" franchise (hence the "ter," which means, roughly, "third" in French) and the parentheses subtly announce that this restaurant ("terre") serves local ingredients. You will find a few conflicting reviews on this place, but the few negative reviews seem to really resent the fact that this really good restaurant is run by people who are virtually children (alright, they're in their 20's). They do an amazing job. Wonderfully prepared food, served exactly right, by people who know what they're doing and who aren't afraid to be just a tad irreverent. It's a very good experience. Go here once and they'll remember you and your preferences.

L'Atelier Maître Albert, at 1 rue Maître Albert, is a stone's throw away from Notre Dame on a quiet little street that you should walk down anyway (+33 1 56 81 30 01, metro Saint-Michel Notre-Dame). This is a Guy Savoy restaurant, located in a building that dates back to the year 1400 (!), and you can expect delicious food beautifully presented and served; warm and comfortable surroundings featuring a fireplace and exposed rotisserie; friendly and knowledgeable staff who will make your meal as delightful as possible; and a value/price ratio that you’ll be hard-pressed to find anywhere else. The restaurant is somehow simultaneously bustling and quiet, beautifully designed but not cold and calculated. The menu is not large, but it is carefully curated, with enough variety that everyone will find something good, including vegetarians. The "saladier foies de volaille" is a beguiling blend of warm and cool, and the livers were marvelously rendered. The roasted chicken, which is hard to do perfectly, was juicy, tender, and flavorful with a nice crisp skin, and the sides dishes aren’t really sides at all: they nearly occupy center-stage, especially the multiple gratins. I know some people don’t order desert, but I bet you'll love the choco-framboise sorbet, which is sort of like a mousse-ganache served with sherbet. You won’t believe how inexpensive this marvelous experience will be.

You all know that Tom rarely provides a negative review. If he comes across something he doesn't like, he just doesn't pass it along. But sometimes he wants to do people a service. There's a restaurant in this general area called Bonvivant at 7, rue des Ecoles. Tom was there a little while back with an American friend—and he noticed that there was a good number of Americans in the restaurant, which suggested that it might be in some of the guidebooks, which might account for what happened next. My friend and I were speaking English, of course, and our waiter came up and in rapid-fire French he insulted us and then proceeded to speak English to us. I responded to his insult in French and he looked a little sheepish—but he didn't apologize—and said he would come back to take our order. The rest of the meal he was pretty lame, and continued to be sort of a downer, if at least not outright insulting. I'm mystified that someone would assume that because you're speaking English you don't speak French. Stupid assumption. Caveat emptor.

Fine dining in an unpretentious (actually downright friendly) atmosphere at better than reasonable prices awaits you at Hugo & Co, which happens to be situated directly across from the entrance to the Arènes de Lutèce on the rue Monge (48, rue Monge, 09 53 92 62 77; metro Cardinal Lemoine or Jussieu). If you're a foodie, I promise you'll love it; if you're indifferent or even a little anxious about trying a Michelin restaurant, this totally unpretentious place is a terrific place to start. Chef Tomy Gousset offers up an astonishingly reasonable menu (prix fixe) full of equally surprising flavor combinations, all beautifully served by a young staff who know their stuff but treat you like friends. When each dish comes out you're intrigued by the eye-catching plating, and each taste is complex, familiar, and new. Desert is a must. Chef Gousset has another restaurant over in the seventh arrondissement bearing his name—Tomy & Co—at 22, rue Surcouf (01 45 51 46 93; and by the way, Hugo & Co is apparently named after his son), and there's a third, Marso & Co, which I haven't yet tried; it's at 16 rue Vulpian in the 13th, metro Glacière or Corvisart). Tomy & Co is located on a calmer street, which makes dining outside all the more interesting. The wine list at both places is fantastic, and the servers know what they're talking about when they recommend pairings for you. If anything, the food at Tomy & Co is just a tad more creative, but the experience at both restaurants is top-notch.          

You Don't Know What You Want, Part I Or, maybe you do, but some restaurants don't really care. The trend has been growng over the past several years in some of the really good, small restaurants, to not let the patrons select what they would like to eat. At Les Papilles (30 rue Gay Lussac, metro Luxembourg; +33 1 43 25 20 79). The chef will come to your table and tell you what your four-course meal will consist of (and your unbelievably good meal will be at the unbelievably low price of roughly 40 euros), and then he'll look over the wall of wine and choose your meal's libation (wine is not included in the price of the meal). Les Papilles is also a little grocery store, as well as a wine shop. This place is a real find and I heartily recommend it. This place is increasingly popular, both for its food and for its completely charming atmosphere. It's also right nearby the Luxembourg Gardens, so you can go and walk off all that you ate (likely not: it will be closed by the time you get out of dinner.

A true find is the Restaurant Perraudin, at 157 rue Saint Jacques (+33 1 46 33 15 75; metro Cluny–La Sorbonne), at the top of the hill where the wide and busy boulevard turns into a narrow, homier neighborhood street. This was once the haunt of Roland Barthes and his coterie (Barthes was a hugely influential literary and cultural critic), and they serve traditional French fare, including a dynamite bœuf bourguignon and an unbelievable gigot d'agneau, at unrealistically low prices. There are two "menus," one at 31 euros and the other at 38 euros, and each is a great deal, offering copious quantities of truly delicious cuisine. The profiterolles are among the best you'll find out there, and the staff are friendly, courteous, and helpful. One of the best-selling—and hence stupid—guide books declares that Perraudin is stodgy and tired, but that guide book has itself been around so long that, well, you get the picture. Go to Perraudin and ignore everyone's advice but mine (this applies, by the way, in nearly all situations). If you can't make it into Perraudin, try the Au Port du Salut, just two doors down at 163 bis (06 58 44 30 58 and note that this is likely a mobile number). The food is just as good, the atmosphere very nice and friendly, and if anything it's just a tad cheaper. The souris d'agneau is top-notch, as is the steak tartare. Add a couple terrific starters, and you have a very nice meal (and the proprietor might even offer you a complimentary after-dinner drink). The food and the service are great, the atmosphere is friendly and congenial, and there you have a recipe for a terrific experience. Go here (and also check out the remarkable history this establishment shares).

You're going to be around the Notre Dame area a lot, both because it's right in the middle of the city and because it's an area worth exploring. One place that's smack-dab in the middle of things but nevertheless manages to retain its quality is Café Panis, at 21, Quai Montebello, right on the river with a perfect view of Notre Dame. I don't know how many people must come in here every day, but somehow the staff manage to treat you as if they're actually glad you're there. The menu is broad, with good hot main courses, salads, sandwiches, and deserts. If you want vegetarian food, there are more and more options in Paris. A recent favorite is Le Grenier de Notre Dame, almost right across the river from the cathedral at 18 rue de la Bûcherie (01 43 28 98 29, metro Cluny-La Sorbonne, Saint-Michel, or Maubert-Mutualité). This place claims to be the first vegetarian restaurant in France (since 1978). Fairly extensive menu of creatively served vegetarian and macrobiotic combos that are filling and satisfying here, at prices that should be in the 25 euros per person range. This is one of those places where even if you think you have to have meat for every meal, you'll still be satisfied.

Further south in the 5th (away from the river)

Around since 1913, Marty, 20, Avenue des Gobelins (+33 1 43 31 39 51; metro Les Gobelins) is another restaurant that the guidebooks will tell you is one of the few remaining "neighborhood" bistros where you'll find locals enjoying excellent food. The restaurant's décor and the building it inhabits give you a solid sense of its history—there are antiques and interesting objects all over the place, and the furniture and lighting create a sumptuous, warm, and serious atmosphere. The food features fresh ingredients, focusing on fish, seafood, and meats, with a menu that leans toward what’s available in season. The menu is comprised of very traditional offerings, and it is very reasonably priced. A lot of locals eat here, and that could be why you might witness a bit of drama. Tom has seen guests (at different tables) loudly arguing with one another, causing waiters to be either harried or overly apologetic. The food will not blow you away, but it’s solid and decently priced. They have a good wine list, which is also reasonably priced.

You'll find other interesting places to cadge a meal on the Rue Mouffetard. There are many good, interesting, and inexpensive restaurants on this street and on the little side streets leading around here. If you decide to dine here, first have a drink at one of the cafés on the Place Contrescarpe at the top of the hill (metro Monge or Cardinal Lemoine). This is a very lively area, especially for the twenty-something set. The bars and restaurants on the Place and the Rue Descartes are very active, and as the night progresses things get more and more active. After your drink, stroll down the rue Mouffetard and look for something nice, making sure that you at least glance down the Rue Saint Médard and especially the Rue du Pot de Fer for more dining options.

In the vicinity of the Rue Mouffetard—just one street over, in fact—is an interesting and fun little place. If it's a warm summer evening head on over to Chez Léna et Mimile, a truly charming bistrot in the quiet part of the Latin Quarter (32 rue Tournefort, 5th arrondissement, phone 01 47 07 72 47, metro Censier-Daubenton or Monge). Lena and Mimile have what might be the absolute best terrasse in the city for outdoor dining, and it's well worth waiting for. Because the restaurant is located at the bottom of a hill, the elevated terrasse affords a terrific view of a quiet and charming neighborhood. The food is very good, nicely prepared, and the staff helpful and friendly. This place has a certain off-the-beaten path feel to it, not necessarily because of the people who go there, but because its aesthetic and sensibility are refined and carefully designed. You get the sense here that these folks have thought a great deal about their food, service, and surroundings, and they are extremely sensitive to their guests' wishes and needs.

The Latin Quarter's Pedestrian District Let's get this out of the way: you'll find a large number of restaurants in the tiny pedestrian streets bordered by the Seine to the north, the boulevard Saint Germain to the south, the boulevard Saint Michel to the west, and the rue Saint-Jacques to the east. You'll know this area immediately, because as you get off the metro at Saint Michel, or as you head away from Notre Dame, you'll run into throngs of people walking around in what can only be described as a quaint little area that looks a bit like how Walt Disney might have depicted Paris—complete with itinerant accordion players. The streets to look for here are the rue Xavier Privas, the rue de la Huchette, and the rue de la Harpe, among others. It can appear very charming: these streets are some of the oldest in Paris, and they wind through a neighborhood teaming with restaurants, bars, and tourist shops. You ought to wonder, though, why if the restaurants are any good almost all of them have guys standing out front trying to get you to enter. Now let me be completely up front about this: I have eaten at a number of these places, and while I've never yet been bowled over by the cuisine, on occasion I've had to admit that a couple of these places aren't half bad—but I do remember, for example, that the last time I had couscous at "Au Bon Couscous" it wasn't very bon. (When I lived in this neighborhood on one of the tiny pedestrian streets the only restaurants here I frequented were the take-away sandwich shops: they do really nice lamb and beef here.) You're quite likely going to want to go to one of these places just because they look somehow really good or charming or authentic. Well, go ahead if you must. In the summer, especially August, there will be a zillion people walking around here, especially from about 9:00 at night until about 1:00 in the morning. You can eat outside, but unless it's really hot I wouldn't recommend it, simply because of the jostling from the crowds and the musicians who will set up and play in front of you (always, always "Those Were the Days My Friend" on the accordion) and ask you for money. (I took the picture above of the rue de la Harpe looking up toward the boulevard Saint Germain, and I had to lean pretty far out my living room window, so you'd better darned well appreciate it.) The rue de la Parcheminerie and the rue Xavier Privas have what seem to me to be the most interesting dark little cave-like restaurants. Also, just across the rue St. Jacques there's another little neighborhood worth checking out. It won't be anywhere near as crowded, and the streets aren't closed to cars as they are here. Look at the rue Galande, rue Dante, and the little streets that run from the boulevard St. Germain toward the Seine. Some cool places and old nightclubs can be found here, including the famous Caveau des Oubliettes at 52, rue Galande, which used to be a medieval prison where offenders were sent to be holed away in the basements and sub-basements to be forgotten ("oubliette" comes from the French word for "forget"). This is a good place for jazz and blues

 

Odéon and Saint-Germain-des-Prés (6th arrondissement)

Polidor,which has been around since 1845, must have something going to have lasted this long. At 41 rue Monsieur le Prince in the 6th (metro Odéon, 01 43 26 95 34), it offers up terrific traditional French cuisine (which it also did to Ernest Hemingway back in the day), and the dining room is homey, beautiful, and comfortable. This restaurant is extremely popular and crowded, not to say hectic. Amazing food and very reasonably price. This is one of those places to go and then to tell everyone back home you went there. It's a sure-fire hit. (For the first 45 years or so of its existence, Polidor was a dairy, hence the word "Crèmerie" you see in the photo here.) Continuing up the slope just a short hop to number 38 rue Monsieur le Prince, you'll find Au Père Louis, which bills itself as a Bar à vins. That's certainly true, but the other thing that's true is that the food is pretty great here as well. This is very much a neighborhood restaurant, and it serves traditional French fare such as snails, onion soup, and duck's liver pâté. The extremely knowledgeable servers will help you select a good wine to go with what you've ordered, and the ambiance of the place is incredibly charming. Inexpensive, this place is also remarkably cozy in the winter.

One of the smallest restaurants you'll see is the Petit Vatel at 5 rue Lobineau in the 6th (01 43 54 28 49; metro Odéon or Mabillon). This terrific little place serves a kind of French terroir menu with a bit of a Spanish influence. You can see on their menu how this works. There are only about 7 tables in the entire establishment, and the whole enterprise appears to be operated entirely by the gentleman who will greet you warmly up front, take your order, and deliver your food. Every once in a while he disappears into the kitchen, so it's hard to tell if he's actually doing the cooking, too (but I doubt it). For as small as it is, this place has the feel of a fully-functioning restaurant (which of course it is); what I think I mean is that there's nothing Mom and Pop about it. And you don't even feel crowded (unless you go to the restroom, where there's a fair amount of wriggling involved; you'll wish you had a facility the size of an airplane restroom). All in all a very convivial place that takes its food and its customers very seriously.

Another really good bistro is Vagenende, at 142 blvd Saint Germain (metro Saint-Germain-Des-Prés, Mabillon, or Odéon; 01 43 26 68 18). This is a turn of the twentieth century bistro, and it's full of interesting art deco décor and people who look as though they somehow still live in the early years of the previous century. The dark wood, bronze, stained glass, and red velvet will make you feel transported in time to an elegance that's probably only imaginary, and the menu focuses on classic cuisine, prepared perfectly, that's as good for the eye as it is for the palate. Reasonably priced (38–55 euros, roughly), it's got good food with pretty good service. (Pronounce the name of this place in your best German and you'll get it—think trains.)

Tired of French food? Then go to a different country. No, really, head over to the Casa Bini, at 36 rue Grégoire de Tours in the Saint-Germain district (01 46 34 05 60, metro Odéon or Mabillon). This excellent Italian restaurant is located away from the more tourist-plagued, plastic-and-neon laden block of Grégoire de Tours located just off the rue St. André des Arts. Rather, it's in the quiet district up the slope toward the top of the street. Although they specialize in various forms of carpaccio here, you'll also find very good pastas and meat dishes. In good weather it's great to dine al fresco here. Although not cheap, it's worth the 50 or so euros you'll spend on two or three courses with wine. If you're looking for a change of pace, Tom heartily recommends this place.

Now if you trust that snobby British guide, which I do not, you might like Brasserie Fernand, at 13 rue Guisarde in the 6th (01.43.54.61.47, metro Mabillon). Fernand has been around for over 50 years and it has that charm of the really crowded place where they cram you in with other people and you get to talk to them and they're all very nice and all, but the food is good, but perhaps not quite good enough for the price. Two of us came away from there 125 euros lighter, and while we enjoyed our meals, we felt that a reasonable price for what we had would have been more in the neighborhood of 90 euros. Just so's you know.

Tired of French food? Then go to a different country. (No, really)

OK, here's a place I've always wanted to go to and haven't yet made it, so you go and tell me how it is: it's called Allard, and it's at 41, rue Saint-André-des-Arts (01.43.26.48.23), metro Saint Michel or Odéon. It's right in the middle of the incredibly hopping Saint-André-des-Arts scene, which is mostly young and, well, party-oriented, but Allard looks strangely rustic, and the menus they've posted in the window in the past look extremely interesting. So, someone go there, and then tell me how it was. (Some folks have written in saying they really like Allard, although one person mentioned it was somewhat expensive. Let's hear from others!) Sandy gives us the definitive word on Allard: "Allard has a wonderful atmosphere and friendly waiters, but get the main room, not the small room in the back— it's claustrophobic. The food is incredible and huge helpings! The only thing we've eaten there is the roast chicken with mushrooms and potatoes, as it's just wonderful! I think that our meal, with a bottle of wine and dessert, came to 125 Euros... nice for a special occasion." Jock writes: "Allard is a really wonderful restaurant. We were there a few months ago. It is a little cramped but good food and very nice mix of locals and others - not just Americans. We sat next to some businessmen from Sweden and a large group of Parisians celebrating a birthday. It was a very nice experience."

La Closerie des Lilas. 171, boulevard du Montparnasse, in the 6th arrondissement (01 40 51 34 50; metro Port-Royal or Vavin). Hemingway used to hang out here, and if you go into the bar you can see his name in the wood on the bar near the left side. The restaurant is somewhat upscale and at first it might look somewhat uppity, but it's not, really. The food is extremely good and the service is impeccable. This is one of those standard, great restaurants. Their dishes are extraordinarily beautiful, and the whole atmosphere, with trellises, nice lighting, indoor/outdoor space, makes this a good spot for a special occasion. You'll probably want to figure between 100 and 130 euros per person. (At left, by the way, is our waiter preparing the Hemingway steak, which is flamed with bourbon and comes in a pretty great sauce.) You can also choose the brasserie, as opposed to the restaurant, and come away probably only about 60 or so euros lighter, but the brasserie doesn't take reservations. The bar isn't too expensive, and you can drink there without eating, which might be fun. There'll probably be some snobby young British character tending bar. I don't know why this is.

If you're in the same neighborhood and don't want to spend as much as you might in the Closerie, consider A Bout de Souffle, situated at 17 bis rue Campagne Première (14th, metro Raspail or Port Royal; 01 43 20 97 81). Inventive, nicely presented food, with a 3-course menu at about 40 euros (you can do two courses for a little cheaper). All of the ingredients, including meat, are from France or the EU; the young staff (including the chef) are all extremely helpful, professional, and knowledgeable. Service is relaxed and careful. Come here especially for the great taste/price ratio. Very good wine list as well, and extremely reasonable prices. (The name of the restaurant is a little hommage to a 1960 film of the same name starring Jean-Paul Belmondo.)

Sauvage promises to deliver the natural, the instinctive, the primitive, the seasonal, and the simple, and they deliver on that promise (55 rue du Cherche Midi, 6th, métro Rennes, Sèvres Babylone, or Vanneau, 01 45 48 86 79). Particular attention is paid to vegetables here, seasonal and generally local vegetables, but that doesn’t mean you can’t get your fix of meat, fish, or poultry. The dishes are unusually colorful (and as Tom understands it the owner spent some time at the Ecole des Beaux Arts), and the wine list alone is enough to attract you here. The ambiance is very simple and clean, which helps you focus on the sight, the aroma, and the taste of what you’re enjoying. The service is personable and impeccable, and on weekends this place becomes quite the hot spot. Stop in at Cave Sauvage across the street before or after your meal for a before- or after-dinner drink.

 

Couscous You must do this at least once. If you don't know what couscous is, just go order some and find out—you will not be disappointed. Basically, it's a North African stew, and it's served over that grain (couscous) that they were promoting in the U.S. a little while back (and check out a reader's correction here). Couscous here, however, is not simply the grain: it's the exquisitely prepared stew, consisting of stewed vegetables and your choice (or not) of meats in a savory sauce served over the grain.There are a lot of couscous restaurants in the pedestrian quarter just off of St. Michel between St. Germain and the Seine (rue Xavier Privas, rue de la Huchette, etc.)—you'll know the area when you see it, and you really don't want to go here for such an important foray into the world of couscous. There are several really excellent couscous restaurants throughout the Latin Quarter (and the 5th in general), among which I would point out:  Chez Jaafar, 22, rue du Sommerard (5th, metro Cluny La Sorbonne, no phone available); Le Méchoui du Prince, (5th, 34–36 rue Monsieur du Prince, metro Cluny–La Sorbonne, Odéon, or Luxembourg); Chez Bébert, a really excellent couscous restaurant in the Montparnasse neighborhood (71 Boulevard du Montparnasse, 6th, 01 42 22 55 31; metro Notre-Dame des Champs or Vavin)  Chez Omar (47, rue de Bretagne, 3rd, metro Filles du Calvaire; 01 42 72 36 26). My favorite, however, is L'Atlas, at 12 boulevard Saint-Germain, 5th, 01 46 33 86 98 (metro Maubert-Mutualité). This is a beautiful and quiet neighborhood surrounded by bustling activity. The service at L'Atlas is excellent—professional, friendly, helpful (especially to couscous newcomers), and slightly wry (which Tom likes). Most important, though, is that the couscous is truly excellent. If you haven't had merguez before, prepare for a treat: it's a spiced lamb sausage, and even if you think you don't like lamb I promise you'll love the merguez at L'Atlas. And quite likely everything else.

 

Quai d'Orsay, Invalides (7th arrondissement)

La Frégate is rapidly becoming one of my favorite places

If you're out museuming (that's a verb; shut up), you might try La Frégate, a nautically themed brasserie-restaurant that's right next to the Musée d'Orsay and more or less just across from the Louvre. It's situated at 1, rue du Bac in the 7th, right where the Quai Anatole France meets the Quai Voltaire (01 42 61 23 77, metro rue du Bac). This place is slightly upscale but not fussy, and while it's no bargain, it's not horribly expensive, either—think 32 euros for a really, really good lunch. It has truly impeccable service, and the waiters attending to you will be charming, very professional, and even slightly friendly. In this carefully preserved turn-of-the-century (that's turn of the 20th century) locale you can still find writers and even some artists from the nearby Ecole des Beaux Arts. This is becoming one of my favorite places.

If you're looking for a big, solid, upscale restaurant serving traditional French food in opulent but not over the top surroundings (see photo at left), then you should go to the Brasserie Le Bourbon (1, place du Palais-Bourbon, 7th arrondissement [01 45 51 58 27, metro Assemblée Nationale]). The menu is moderate but well chosen and the wine list is carefully designed to accompany it. Here you'll find things such as "faux filet de race" (which is a cut like sirloin; the "race" part is sort of heritage beef—get it?). The entrées are very nice; the deserts are even better. You're more than likely to see politicians and journalists here, since you're just a stone's throw from the Assemblée Nationale. Listen up, and maybe you'll hear some good political gossip.

Not far from the Eiffel Tower is La Fontaine de Mars, where you should certainly go if you like southwest (France) cuisine (129 rue Saint Dominique, 7th arrondissement [01 47 05 46 44], metro École Militaire). I was first taken there by some lovely friends who live in the neighborhood, and can't get enough of it. Reserve a table and then appreciate the warm greeting upon your arrival. This place has been around for over 100 years, which should tell you something already. The recipes and the food come from the southwest—you'll find magret de canard, foie gras, and other specialties of the region, carefully prepared and beautifully served. Very nice daily specials complement the imaginative menu. This is an extaordinarily pleasant place to take a meal. The owner will great you with genuine warmth and hospitality.

Montparnasse, Alésia (14th arrondissement, mostly)

The Boulevard du Montparnasse, a broad thoroughfare bordered by numerous restaurants, bars, cafés, and movie theaters, feels a little like a neighborhood in a big American city. The only skyscraper in Paris (56 stories) is situated just off the boulevard, right about in the middle of the boulevard's span, and you won't have any problem if you want to find it—nothing in the city is anywhere near so tall. You can go to the top of the skyscraper and get a view of Paris, but I'm not sure it's really worth it: the building is so tall, and all of the other buildings are so much smaller that everything is flattened and out of scale. Nevertheless, some people like to go to the top, their ears popping all the way up, to have a gander.

Montparnasse, by the way, is named after Mount Parnassus, the mountain in Greece where the muses were said to live. You'll find your choice of muse in this neighborhood, provided it's food- or beverage-related. This area has been a haunting groud for students, writers, and philosophers, for centuries, and until recently some of Paris's most famous philosophers could still be seen at its tables.

You'll find great seafood in this neighborhood

You'll find great sea food in this neighborhood. Start at La Coupole, once the haunt of Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir, and the existentialist set (102 boulevard du Montparnasse [01 43 20 14 20]). It's got a brilliant art deco interior, wry and attentive waiters in smart black and white attire, a traditional menu that will certainly please, and, strangely, the staff all gather around the table and sing "joyeux anniversaire" (happy birthday) to those celebrating another year. This is a place to come for oysters and to bask in the history of nearly 80 years of operation, where folks such as Patti Smith and François Mittérand have dined (but perhaps not together).

Perhaps slightly more expensive, equally stylish and art deco-y, and just as eager to serve you top-notch seafood is Le Dôme (108 Boulevard du Montparnasse [01 43 35 25 81], metro Vavin). The sole might be their signature dish, and the view from the terrasse is pretty excellent.

Right nearby, at 99 Boulevard du Montparnasse, is one of Tom's favoites: Le Select (01 45 48 38 24), metro Vavin. Le Select was a favorite of the artists and philosophers of post-war (WWI) Paris, including folks like F. Scott Fitzgerald and Picasso. The food is fine, the service is OK, but the atmosphere is really nice. This is a place to come if you're not looking for a gourmet experience, but just want to hang out and enjoy the scene and the history.

Finally, to round out this selection of Montparnasse area restaurants we have La Rotonde (105 Boulevard du Montparnasse [01 43 26 48 26] métro Vavin). La Rotonde has been around for a tad over a hundred years, and it has had its share of artists and such coming through. A little more oriented toward the meat-eaters among you, La Rotonde has a 39 euro prix fixe menu that's a pretty good deal. Very pretty surroundings and excellent people-watching here.

Pretty much right in the heart of Alésia is the bright and bustling Zeyer, at 62, rue d'Alésia (01 45 40 43 88; metro Alésia). First opened in 1913, this is a place to come to for fish, seafood, oysters, and rich and tasty meats. The décor here has been modernized, but it's still a very traditional brasserie, and the staff and the waiters are friendly, smart, and quick. If you want to go for a meal with a different feel than you'll get at many more centralized locations—meaning this place feels real and neighborhoody—then check it out.

Absolutely not to be missed is Le Quatorze Juillet, at 99 rue Didot (14th [01 40 44 91 19] metro Plaisance or Alésia). Go to this roughly 20-table restaurant and expect to be the only non-locals here, and expect as well to be warmly greeted and served attentively and promptly. The food is more or less modernized traditional French, and it is done insanely well. In fact, the price to quality ratio is among the best in the city in Tom's humble but, alas! correct opinion (at a recent dinner, 2 of us had 3 courses each and shared a bottle of wine for 46 euros each). I think it's safe to say the menu leans toward meat and fish, but you'll find plenty here if those aren't your thing. Tom's favorite menu item is the millefeuille d'avocat au crabe et curry, which is simply crab and avocado, brilliantly spiced, wedged inside layers of flaky pastry. Mmmmm. Go here. Really.

There's this thing in this neighborhood that's kind of hard to describe called L'Entrepôt (which means depot or warehouse). Situated at 7 rue Francis de Pressensé (metro Pernety or Plaisance), it's a combination of cinema, restaurant, theater, and concert space (and those various agencies have separate contact information). But here we're concerned about the food. What's especially interesting about the restaurant  Fulgurances (which means abundance) is that they incubate up-and-coming chefs here, each of whom spends several months in residence cultivating their menus and trying out things to perfection. What they seem to have in common is new angles on traditional food—think very new—or combinations no one has thought of before. The place also has a very appealing dining area and the waitstaff are fun and a bit irreverent (in a good way).

Aux artistes. 63 rue Falguière (01 43 22 05 39). Metro Pasteur or Falguìère, but Pasteur is closer (18 euros—think about that: 3 courses for 18 euros). I've saved the best for last, because this is my favorite restaurant in the world, and it's impossible to explain why. The food is very good—not great, but very good; the ambiance is not enchanting, but it's certainly charming. There's just something, well, I don't know what about this place, and since it's been around since the 1950s, they must be doing something right. Go here, but don't tell anyone about it because we don't want it to be overrun, but I promise you will adore this place. Everyone I've ever taken here has added it to their personal list of favorites. You have to write down your own order on the little slip of paper that will be sitting on your table, and make sure to write down what you want to drink as well. Note that wine is not included here, but get the Réserve—it costs about 2 euros more than the red junk they serve ordinarily, but it's worth it. The "menu" is on the right-hand page of the folder-type thing they give you, and there are about a million choices. Do not order à la carte. Get the Boeuf Bourguignon if you're not redmeated out. The chicken dishes (poulet) are all good, too. People say the steak tartar is remarkable, but I can't deal with that. I hear the brains aren't bad, and make sure to look at the ceiling. This place has recently found its way into the guide books, which is disappointing, and there will probably be a lot of British and likely some American tourists there (although recently that hasn't been the case, but the little hand-written sign pointing out the location of the light switch for the restroom still says "Lumière/light"). In general, you want to go late here; it'll be jammed until about 10:00 and sometimes even later, especially in the summer. This is a very good place to have a late dinner. All in all, it may well be the best restaurant in the world for food quality, price, and ambiance. The only thing it doesn't have going for it is location, since there isn't really that much else around it (although the neighborhood has been coming up lately). Really: just go here, and then tell me how much you loved it.

 

Right Bank Restaurants

Montmartre, the Grands Boulevards, the Louvre, and the Champs Elysées are surrounded by terrific restaurants.

The Right Bank has the reputation of being elegant and sophisticated, mainly because of the wildly expensive shopping areas around the Champs-Elysées, the Place Vendôme, the Avenue Montaigne, and the Rue St. Honoré. That doesn't mean, of course, that everything on the right bank is like that, and the restaurants Tom presents here are good culinary experiences and mostly pretty affordable.

Starting in the center and branching out: Ile Saint-Louis

A great place to start exploring the Right Bank is on the impossibly charming Ile Saint-Louis, the smaller island in the middle of the Seine and in the middle of the city. Why is that Right Bank, you ask, if it's in the river and not on a bank at all? The answer is simple: C'est comme ça. It just is.

A nice and solid brasserie with an unbeatable view for outdoor dining is the Brasserie de l'Isle Saint-Louis at 55, Quai de Bourbon (métro Saint-Michel Notre-Dame or Hôtel de Ville, (01 43 54 02 59). This establishment has been around for at least a half century, and it's still run by the same family. Because it's located right where the Pont Saint-Louis joins the island, you'll get great people-watching and spur of the moment entertainment by musicians and other generally talented folks, and the view looking outward is simply splendid. The menu is classic brasserie (along with the daily specials on the slate), including salade frisée, pâtés, chicken, steaks, veal liver, and their specialties, various forms of sauerkraut, cassoulet (bean and pork stew), and grilled pork. The waitstaff are attentive, helpful, and knowledgeable.

Across the street, at the angle of the rue Jean du Bellay and the Rue Saint-Louis en l'Ile is Le Saint-Régis (6, rue Jean du Bellay, métro Saint-Michel Notre-Dame or Hôtel de Ville, 01 43 54 59 41). While this place in its current iteration is only a few years old, they've done a truly fantastic job of giving it an old-time flare. It's beautifully crafted from floor to ceiling and it's a pleasure to sit there and admire your surroundings. The food here is simple and solid: think sandwiches, pâté, snails, eggs, salads, with main-course dishes such as steaks, duck, chicken, and fish. And Tom knows from personal experience that their burgers aren't half bad. You can also get yourself a really good drink here: the bar offers tremendous choices of beer, wine, liquor, as well as traditional and inventive (and punnily named) cocktails (Porn Star Martine, Moustache Gracias, and Pardon My French). Location, ambiance, and quality of food and drink make this worth the visit.    

The Marais/Place des Vosges/Bastille

One of Tom's new favorites in the marais is Capitaine, at 4, impasse Guéménée, 4th arrondissement (01 44 61 11 76; métro Bastille). Le Capitaine is situated in an impasse, which, while the somewhat harsh-sounding English translation would be "dead end," is actually a lovely and quiet escape from the city. Capitaine values fresh and seasonal ingredients, and their menu reflects this in the periodic rotations you'll find there, which is likely why you won't find their menu or carte posted on their website. The delicious and downright healthy experience you'll have will also be very reasonably priced. And the chef is quite friendly.

On a warm summer evening head over to the Place du Marché Ste. Catherine in the 4th (metro Saint-Paul), just off the rue Caron. A half dozen decent restaurants occupy this charming, quiet little square that seems totally removed from the busy city around it, and they spread out into the space with overhead lights, plants, and just about everything you'd want that screams with charm and ambiance. You won't believe you're in a huge city here. Although the restaurants are hit and miss—but all perfectly serviceable—they're reasonably priced and you simply can't do better for incredibly lovely ambiance in the summertime. Tom recommends in particular Le Marché, at 2 Place du Marché Sainte-Catherine (01.40.09.05.33). The outdoor seating is marvelous, the service is friendly and a bit humorous, and the food, which ranges from old stand-by traditionals such as foie gras to burgers and on to rich meats and delicious pastas. Get a dessert here, especially if you like chocolate. If you want slightly less atmosphere (i.e., you'll be eating inside) but slightly better, perhaps more interesting food, check out Les Bougresses (at 6 rue Jarente, just at the top (north end) of the square; 01 48 87 71 21). Tom loves Les Bougresses. The staff are friendly, a bit sarcastic and funny, and the food is very carefully prepared, it's delicious and inventive, and they have great apéritifs and deserts. That means you start well and finish great. The diverse menu offers choices for most palates, including vegetarian. Check the place out. (And by the way, "bougresses" is somewhat hard to translate; it's a slang and generally derogatory word for women, and the closest word Tom can think of is "wretch" (one of the dictionaries Tom consulted suggested "trout," which I'm pretty sure is British and pretty surer is stupid. As is often the case, the offensive word can be commandeered and ironically used against those who would deploy it objectionably. Pretty sure that's the case here.)

When you're in the marais, check out the rue des Rosiers ("Street of the Rosebushes"), which has carried this name as far back as the fourteenth century. The rue des Rosiers is the heart of the Jewish quarter, and as you're walking around you'll see delicious bakeries and synagogues, and all kinds of restaurants. Two Tom likes to point out are L'As du falaffel, at number 34 (01 48 87 63 60), and Chez Marianne (which is actually on the corner of the rue des Rosiers and the rue des Hospitalières St Gervais—01 42 72 18 86; métro Saint-Paul). Chez Marianne offers up scrumptuous Mediterranean and Eastern European cuisine, specializing in delicious pitas, keftas, and falaffel. Deserts include halva and loukoum. L'As du falaffel offers exactly what they say, and you'll see large numbers of people lined up outside waiting for what many consider to be the best falaffel in the world.

Some time back, friends took Tom to the Café de l’Industrie (just a short walk to the east from the Place du Marché Ste. Catherine), and Tom has championed it ever since (16, rue Saint Sabin, 11th, métro Bréguet-Sabin, 01 47 00 13 53). This is the place to go for your grab-your-friend-after-work dinner where you can relax and gossip in a chill environment with food you can always count on for excellent quality at a really reasonable price. The décor is a kind of “found object” motif, reminiscent of some non-specific time or times in the past, and the menu is good, basic French fare without fussiness or fanfare: the food stands on its own. The restaurant also offers a Parisian and a continental breakfast, as well as a Saturday and Sunday brunch. You’re just a stone’s throw to the Bastille, so you can go clubbing or bar-hopping after dinner. 

Like Moroccan food, or never tried it? Head on over to Monsou', at 60, rue de Charonne in the 11th (06 11 15 73 50, metro Ledru-Rollin). This inexpensive and down-to-earth restaurant is owned and staffed by marvelous people who will do everything in their power to make you feel comfortable, to show you how great Moroccan food can be (they call it Maroc'N Food), and they'll go out of their way to accommodate your requests. Get a couscous or a tagine and you can't go wrong, and make sure to save some room for their scrumptuous deserts, which are light and flavorful.

Les Halles/Pompidou Center

Just to the east of the large Les Halles complex is the truly lovely Epi d'Or. Located at 25, rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau in the first arrondissement (01.42.36.38.12, metro Louvre-Rivoli). L'Epi d'Or is the best kind of mix of old-fashioned and cutting edge. You will be greeted unusually graciously, especially if you have reserved, and you may even be asked which of you in the group is the host. There are delicious and suptuous (and reasonably priced) prix fixe menus that change daily, each offering 2 courses for 37 euros or 3 courses for 46. You can also go à la carte as simply as a green salade and a croque monsieur, or elegantly and gourmandly with foie gras in pastry and blanquette of veal. Whatever you choose, you won't go wrong. 

Au pied de cochon is located at 6, rue Coquillière, right near the Bourse du Commerce (formerly a commodities market and Chamber of Commerce for the city; now a museum) and Les Halles in the 1st, Metro Les Halles (01.40.13.77.00). This is an old favorite, and it belongs in the same category as Flo and Julien, described above. This restaurant used to be very popular with the market regulars when Les Halles was still functioning as a farmers' market (Les Halles was the open market that had been functioning on this site since the twelfth century), and the restaurant is a striking mixture of elegance and casual chic. You can go there any time of day or night—it's open 24 hours—and gorge out, or pop in simply for a bowl of onion soup. If they try to seat you upstairs, refuse adamantly—insist on a seat on the ground floor.

If the Pied de Cochon doesn't move you, or if it's just not what you're looking for, you'll find that any of the restaurants in this little cluster (just look to your left as you're facing the restaurant) are quite good. In the summer they all have outdoor seating (this is a very nice street), and they're all pretty much in the same price range (expect to pay 40–55 euros). Nearby, in the Montorgueil/Les Halles district is the splendid Pharamond, at 24 rue de la Grande Truanderie (01.40.28.45.18, metro Etienne Marcel). This restaurant, which serves in a lovely courtyard during the summer, is a classified historical monument inside: its turn-of-the-century decor is beautifully impressive, and the staff are extremely friendly. The menu is more or less classic French, and prices are in the neighborhood of 25 euros per person. This is one of Tom's new favorites. Oh, and by the way, Pharamond has private rooms upstairs that are done up in a gorgeous late nineteenth-century style that you can reserve (see photo).

In the Montorgueil quarter, make sure to visit Au Rocher de Cancale at 78, rue Montorgueil, 2nd arrondissement (01 42 33 50 29, metro Sentier or Etienne Marcel). This establishment dates back to 1846, and it has a fascinting history. Here they serve more or less traditional food with modern twists. They have really appealing and large salads here, and if you get a table facing the street you're in for some very first-class people watching (figure about 30 euros). At night this place becomes a pretty hip café for your evening drinking and viewing pleasure. It's a fairly young and mostly local crowd, but reasonably friendly.

From Pharamond (or for that matter Le Pied de Cochon) you're only a stone's throw to the Pompidou Centre, which houses a restaurant on its top floor that you should know about. It's perhaps unsurprisingly called Georges (you know that France's President Pompidou, in office from 1969–1974, was named Georges, right?). Georges is considerably better in almost all regards than most museum restaurants: the food is terrific, the bar is great, and the view from the rooftop of the Pompidou Center is especially commanding (although some of the images from the website make it appear even better than Tom thinks it really is). Tom goes to this restaurant not infrequently for all of the reasons just outlined, but he also thinks you should be warned that the people who greet you when you arrive are almost insufferably pretentious. Ignore their silliness and enjoy yourself anyway.

Near the Place Vendôme

Someplace you're not likely to find that has a nice concentration of interesting restaurants is the area around Saint Roch and the rue du marché Saint Honoré (1st arrondissement). Take the métro to Pyramides, and then go down the rue des Pyramides to the rue St. Honoré. Turn right and head over one block, just past the church, to the rue Saint Roch. Turn right again, and head up the rue Saint Roch. Here you'll find an unusual mix of traditional auberge-style restaurants with new wave Japanese restaurants. If none of these strikes your fancy, keep going straight until you get to the rue Gomboust, turn left, and proceed on over into the square ahead. You'll find the Marché Saint Honoré here, and all around it, particularly heading down the rue du marché Saint Honoré, a collection of upscale restaurants, each in a different style. Look especially at L'Ecluse and L'Absinthe. You'll likely agree that Nomad's is a good place for an after-dinner drink, and they often have live music with no cover charge (and you're in for a special treat if René Miller's Wedding Band is playing).

You Don't Know What You Want, Part II Some of the most creative young chefs, who for reasons I don't understand but approve of have quite small restaurants, are building your menu for you and not giving you much of a chance to say what you'd like to eat. Tom's favorite restaurant of this variety won "best new restaurant of the year" in a few years back, and it's called Le Rigmarole (10 Rue du Grand Prieuré; metro Oberkampf; and you're going to need a reservation +33 1 71 24 58 44). Readers might be amused that on the English menu there's a disclaimer asking people not to bring their ill-behaved children; no such request appears on the French version of the menu. Thank you, Robert and Jessica! When you sit down, assuming you're going to get the chef's menu, they'll come out and ask you if there's anything you simply won't eat; what you really like; what you're not sure of, etc. And then they'll craft a meal for you to your liking. It's truly extraordinary, and the chefs, Robert and Jessica, are so unbelievably charming and friendly (and they speak English) and skilled and you just want to applaud them. We had a lobster and hand-made pasta that sounds so simple—and it is—but it was unbelievably good. The waitstaff is friendly and helpful, and the whole experience in this establishment of no more than a dozen tables is memorable.

Near the Grands Boulevards

Chartier, 7, rue du faubourg Montmartre. An institution (metro Grands Boulevards). This is a restaurant that you really should go to, just because of its history (they claim three centuries of service to 50 million people!) and its strange, loud, hectic ambiance. The food isn't remarkable (but it's certainly quite decent). This is one of the rare occasions when you should order à la carte (and they post their very reasonably priced menu on the web daily). People will begin lining up for dinner very early—think 6:00 or so, which is crazy in Paris—but because this is a pretty large place the line moves reasonably quickly. The dining room is very crowded and noisy in a very festive way, the waiters will be gruff but charming, and they'll write your order directly on the paper table cloth. If you're young and/or on a budget, you'll absolutely love this place (pictured here). Chartier is the sort of grande dame of the great inexpensive restaurants. If you are alone or with only one other person, expect to be seated at a table with someone else. This is OK, so just cool out, will you? You'll probably actually enjoy yourself.

Two especially interesting brasseries (that belong to the same corporate family) are Brasserie Floderer (7, cour des petites écuries, 10th arrondissement, Metro Chateau d'eau or Strasbourg Saint-Denis [07 82 97 73 80]); and Julien, 16, rue du faubourg St. Denis, at Metro Strasbourg Saint Denis (01 47 70 12 06). For Floderer, don't confuse the COUR des petites écuries with the RUE des petites écuries (you want the COUR). If you do, you'll never be seen again (idle threat). Floderer is a bit hard to find, but keep looking, because I guarantee you, it's worth it (and by the way, some of you may know this place in its former incarnation as "Brasserie Flo"). To gain access to the Cour you have to go through a little doorway that looks almost like a regular entrance to a building either at 20, rue d'Enghien; or at 63, rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis. Julien is easier to find (and that's Julien below), and you ought to know that some people find the neighborhood a little down-trodden. It's true that there are prettier streets, but the dining experience at both of these places is well worth it. Neither of these places is cheap—probably about 50-80€, depending on how excessive you feel—but well worth it for the big splurge, such as last night stuff, celebration, etc. Get a Kir Royal as an apéritif if you feel festive—it's one of the house drinks and it's made of champagne and crème de cassis (black current liqueur). Both of these are 19th-century restaurants, kind of loud and the waiters are a little gruff; this is the way it's supposed to be, and the service is usually quite good (although a waitress at Julien spilled a half glass of red wine on me once (I was wearing a silk jacket)—but to their credit, the management took care of it immediately). The food will be really good, carefully prepared, and nicely presented. On top of it all, you can dress rather casually here, too (but don't get carried away). Unless you frequent 4-star restaurants a lot, this may be the best food you've had in a very long time. I think I prefer Julien just a bit to Flo, maybe only because it's bigger, a bit more bustling, and for some reason, even though these are owned by the same company, the food seems just a little bit better prepared here.

Just a tad to the north, you'll find good couscous, and surprisingly cheap, at Le Delly's, which bills itself as a "restaurant africain"(5 rue des deux gares, 10th arrondissement, metro Gare du Nord or Gare de l'Est [01 40 34 90 74]). It's in a neighborhood you otherwise might not find, between the Gare de l'Est and the Gare du Nord, and there's a somewhat raucous crowd up front downstairs, and a quieter dining room upstairs. The staff is friendly and bantering, and they might offer you a snort of fig liqueur after dinner. Expect to pay about 30–35 euros all included.

Trinité/Saint-Georges

If it's outdoor dining weather and you have the good sense to be in the 9th arrondissement, there's a quiet and charming area that Tom recommends (but you don't have to dine outside to enjoy these). You're not going to dine on the most exotic and sumputuous of morcels, but you'll have very good, solid, reasonably-priced French food in picturesque and calm surroundings. The Eglise de la Trinité overlooks the Place d'Estienne d'Orves, which was named after a French resistant fighter who was killed by the Germans in 1941. It is surrounded by good restaurants, including La Rotonde, at address number 2 (and the architecturally beautiful apartment building next door is listed as a French historical monument; Le Royal Trinité at 59 rue de Chateaudun (but facing the Square); and the Café du Mogador (Tom's favofite) at 57 rue de Chateaudun, also facing the square. These place are all good spots for lunch, but they're especially good for a late evening meal.

For a chill experience right nearby on a quiet street in the ninth arrondissement, take a shot at Le Pantruche (3 Rue Victor Masse, metro Pigalle or Saint-Georges, 01 48 78 55 60). Laid-back ambiance and equally laid-back (but efficient) staff will greet you and you’ll experience fresh takes on classic dishes beautifully conceived, plated, and flavored. The menu changes all the time—heck, it’s not even on their website—and they’ll have the classic slate on hand for you to make your choices. “Pantruche,” by the way, is an old slang term for Paris (another one, which is Tom’s favorite, is “Paname,” which is the name for Panama). The restaurant is less than a stone’s throw away from a truly excellent market street—the rue des Martyrs—which is in itself worth visiting. 

Gardiens of the Dining Experience A good many restaurants have fluffy guardians. Cats are no strangers to Parisian restaurants, and owners and patrons are equally fond of them. Someone once told me she thought that restaurants that have cats are unclean (because they have mice, hence the cats), but I haven't noticed any correlation between restaurants with cats and lax health standards. Cats are, in general, very much fawned over in France, and one of the world's best poets—the nineteenth-century genius Charles Baudelaire—wrote some great poems about cats. My favorite restaurant cat was Polo, who owned Le Train Bleu. Polo has gone on to a better place. To the right is Alex the restaurant cat at Chez Bébert (see Left Bank Restaurants).

Montmartre

Try in particular the Villa du Poulebot, on the Place Charles Dullin, (technically at 10 Rue Dancourt [metro Anvers]). There are two menus, both quite inexpensive, and they're both very good. For a selection of appealing restaurants, some of which come and go, try also the Rue des Trois Frères, Metro Anvers. Go up this street, and you'll find many interesting, quirky, and reasonably priced restaurants. If you don't want to spend much money, you might want to try Le Buffet, at 18, rue des Trois Frères. They have a reasonably priced menu which does not, you should note, include dessert, but you can order the "Buffet" for your first course, which is sort of like a French salad bar—very unusual, actually, and with lots of good stuff on it that you can load onto your plate. You can also try the restaurants all the way up the hill on the Place du Tertre, but they're not my favorite. Too many tourists, really (don't you love it when someone says that?). An interesting place just off of the top of the hill is La Maison Rose, which is, in fact (as the name says), a little pink house—it was also the subject of a Maurice Utrillo painting. If you're at the top of the hill, at the Place du Tertre (where all the artists are), go down the very busy Rue des Norvins and turn right onto the Rue des Saules. Go down the hill to the corner of the Rue de l'Abreuvoir and you'll see the little pink house at number 2 (01 42 57 66 75). It's very good, quite charming, and it's a terrific place to have dinner outside in Montmartre on a warm summer's night. Again: go late.

Oberkampf/Canal Saint-Martin

The Oberkampf area has a number of great restaurants that you should know about. Look in particular at Astier, at 44, rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud (metro Parmentier, Oberkampf, or Goncourt [01 43 57 16 35]). This fantastic restaurant (one of the 100 best restaurants in France) looks like a little house in the middle of Paris, and when you're dining, whether downstairs or upstairs, you feel like you're in someone's country dining room. The rustic décor features local woods, and the close and comfortable surroundings make you feel like the other diners are your friends. The place has been around for over 50 years, and they feature what they call "nouveau bistro" cuisine: traditional fare injected with more basic elements. Menu and à la carte; figure about 50–70 euros, and reservations are recommended (which you can make on line).

Still in the Oberkampf area is the strangely named Ave Maria, at 1 rue Jacquard (opposite 61 rue Oberkampf, 01.47.00.61.73 metro Parmentier or Oberkampf). This restaurant has accomplished the difficult task of being one of Tom's new favorite restaurants. It's world cuisine, which means a cool mishmash of Mexican, Brazilian, French, and whatever. You're likely to find watermellon, passion fruit, chicken, piquant sauces and who knows what else in the earthenware crockery your food comes in, and the absolutely charming waitstaff will go out of their way to help you. Do go here.

Bercy

Sort of off the beaten path is the medium to big splurge Le Train Bleu. This place is quite over the top and weirdly elegant, and it's right in the middle of the ornate mid-19th century train station, the Gare de Lyon (pictured here; the restaurant's official address is 1, place Louis Armand, but it's in the Gare de Lyon, 12th arrondissement, metro of that same name [01 43 43 09 06]). My guess is that this is where wealthy travelers dined before boarding their first-class trains headed to the Riviera. The gilded vaulted ceilings and ornate lighting certainly recall an earlier (and richer) era, but the menu is contemporary traditional. The food is carefully prepared and presented (although the service can be somehat indifferent), but the reason to go here is for the combination food–décor. It's sort of like entering another world, really (but it's too bad the staff don't all appreciate it: one night I was there one of the hostesses whipped out a spray bottle of kitchen cleaner right at the front door and started cleaning the menus, which makes you wonder what people were doing with them). Make sure to go the bathroom so you can check out the Big Ben Bar (which is coterminus with the restaurant). It's got these big old fantastic leather chairs, and the brunch rooms, with their windows opening out onto the square below, are luxurious and evocative of something well-heeled and tastefully lavish (you can also polish your shoes right outside the bathroom). All of this doesn't come cheap: expect to pay in the neighborhood of 80 euros or significantly more. Some say this restaurant has gone downhill; Tom thinks it's still worth a visit.

OK, here's another challenge to Tom's readers: for years I'd wanted to go to Chez Julien, pictured here, but somehow just never made it there. (1 rue du Pont Louis-Philippe, metro Pont-Marie or Hotel de Ville, +33 1 42 78 31 64). It had always looked completely charming to me, but for whatever reason I just kept putting it off. I finally went, and I have to say it was a pretty mixed bag. On the one hand, the ambiance is absolutely charming. You can see from the photo here that it’s a beautiful little establishment—turns out that it was founded in the 18th century—and inside it’s as nice as the outside promises. It’s quite small and intimate, so you might well be forced to listen to your neighbors’ conversation. The food is beautifully prepared by someone who quite clearly knows what s/he is doing, but all of this was marred by indifferent service. I’m not especially fussy (God, I hope none of my friends is reading this), but the service wasn’t bad—it was simply rude. When our waitress brought the wine, she held it backwards so we couldn’t read the label, and she quite literally threw things on our table. At desert I ordered the mousse au chocolat and my companion selected the cheese, and the bread for that course was given to me. I just hope it was a bad night, because I really want to like this place and I think it can be special. Check it out.

Readers Chime In

Leslie was impressed with Breakfast in America, at 4 rue Malher in the 4th (01 42 72 40 21; metro Saint-Paul—but there's another one at 17, rue des Ecoles in the 5th, metro Cardinal LeMoine or Jussieu [ndlr]). Leslie writes: "My friend, who does not like croissants, pain au chocolate, etc., was looking for a restaurant where we could have eggs, bacon, and toast. We discovered the Breakfast in America restaurant and she was delighted! Needless to say, we ate there several times for breakfast and lunch (the cheeseburgers and milk shakes were delicious)!"

Dave D likes Le Chateaubriand, at 129 avenue Parmentier, metro Goncourt (01.43.57.45.95): "Le Chateaubriand with Chef Inaki Aizpitarte at the helm. One of the best restaurants in town for those wanting to experience Parisian fine dining (rather than casual bistro fare) without spending too much. 55 eurow for a 6-8 course prix fixe no-choice dinner of a lifetime. Although no Michelin stars as of 2012, it has been ranked among the top 50 restaurants in the worldfor a few years running now. Also highly regarded among chefs around the world. The chef's newest venture is 1 or 2 doors down called Le Dauphin. Prix fixe lunch and à la carte tapas-style dinner menu. Even more affordable. Both top notch cooking but casual setting. Reservations highly recommended—2 weeks in advance maybe." Tom has been to both of Dave's recommendations, and he heartily seconds them.

Sue is especially impressed with Zinc Zinc, at 209 Ter (209C, basically), avenue Charles de Gaulle in Neuilly sur Seine (Neuilly Sur Seine is a suburb of Paris, but it's so close that you won't even know you're not in Paris—and the metro will take you there without any special ticket or anything—Just get off at Pont de Neuilly). Sue writes: "Food excellent, service superb, prices resonable, atmosphere relaxed. And even though their English is as limited as my French, they are very patient and downright nice. Big thumbs up every time I go there."

An anonymous reader (who I'll bet is French) is extremely enthusiastic about L'Ambassade d'Auvergne, at 22, rue du Grenier Saint-Lazare in the third arrondissement (01 42 72 31 22; metro Rambuteau). "This is really my favourite restaurant in Paris. Typical food from the Auvergne region (you must eat an aligot once in your life, that is, mashed potatoe with a special cheese, but really more sophisticated than that), the lamb is excellent, in a superbe decor, delicious food, neat service and not that expensive especially as they offer lot's of small things during the meal : terrine with the aperitif, fouasse and conquises with the coffee. Very pleasant, relaxed-smart atmosphere. And it's opened on sundays."

Colin enjoyed the Auberge Nicolas Flamel (51 rue Montmorency, third arrondissement, metro Arts et Metiers, Etienne Marcel, or Rambuteau: 01 42 71 77 78), in the oldest house in Paris: "I thought I'd made a huge mistake when I went into this street but the reality was something else. Home to Nicolas Flamel, a 16th-century (I think) french alchemist it's supposed to be one of the oldest residential houses in Paris. Inside it's huge guilt mirrors, candel light and very few electric lights. Service was first class. The floor is run by one very efficient lady. There are only 12–15 tables downstairs so it's very intimate. Food is exceptional (try the pot au feu seafood casserole). My girlfriend said it was THE most romantic restaurant she'd ever been to and it made her cry. Booking is strongly recommended.

Dan in Florida likes Ma Bourgogne, at 19 place des Vosges in the 4th (metro Saint-Paul, Bastille, or Chemin Vert: 01 42 78 44 64). Dan writes: "This place has been there for a long time in any area that has seen a lot of changes. An inexpensive (well, considering the location), traditional Burgundian place on one of the most beautiful little squares in the city—a 17th-century gem. Order a bottle of chilled Brouilly and something off the list of hearty, country-style dishes!"

Patou writes about the Auberge Pyrenees Cevanne, 106 rue de la Folie Mericourt, 11th, métro République or Parmentier, 01 43 57 33 78. "This absolutely charming, warm, authentic resto in the 111th is run by the amazing Françoise and her family. Delicious Lyonnaise specialities, like the fantastic cassoulet, and calves liver. Charming decor, non-touristic. This is a must for us every year when we rent our apartment in Paris."

Peter reviews Tom's reviews of restaurants: "Let me give you feedback on my experiences at four restaurants that are in your guide: Pré Verre: becoming a bit avant garde in its cooking (e.g. black rice ice cream) with varying success. Service a bit sloppy. Perraudin: The food is still very traditional i.e. few veg, meat covered in thick sauce. Au Port Salut: interesting food and good service. A bit more expensive than Perraudin now but my favourite of the places we visited. La Brouette: agree with comments in your guide—inexpensive with straitforward food. P.S. despite some differences I trust your guide."

Jackie swears by the Jules Verne Restaurant, located on the Eiffel Tower itself, but she also cautions that you need to reserve well in advance (01.45.55.61.44), and adds that "the view is magnificent!" Although Tom has never dined here, he has heard from many folks who have what a great experience it is. Gentleman, be aware: this restaurant enforces its policy of jackets for men.

An anonymous reader tells us we have to check out La Coupole, which is also listed on the "Hanging Out" page (102, bd du Montparnasse, 01.43.20.14.20, about 40 euros), and I couldn't agree more. It's one of Montparnasse's old stand-bys, and many a famous writer called the large and open restaurant a second home.

Terry recommends A La Petite Chaise at 36, rue de Grenelle in the seventh arrondissement (01 42 22 13 35 metro rue du Bac or Saint Sulpice). They went early and "there were no patrons at that time. The servers were almost overjoyed to help us. By the time we finished, the place did start to fill up." The restaurant was two blocks from Terry's hotel.

Galen says that one should go to Perraudin (see above) for the Au Gratin alone, and adds that when they went there the owner was so nice he even offered them a complimentary Kir at the bar because they had to wait a little while ("an unexpected delight," writes Galen).

An anonymous reader recommends Chez L'Ami Jean, at 27 Rue Malar in the 7th (metro Tour-Maubourg: 01 47 05 86 89). He/she writes: "This is a very small and crowded Basque bistro with mostly French people seated. There was one other American couple there the night we went. Great ambiance, friendly waiters, large portions of food—altogether a wonderful experience. Not cheap, but worth it."

James from Orlando points out Tom's error on couscous: "when talking about a restaurant named La Couscoussière, you refer to couscous as a grain. It is only a grain in that it is made from a grain, but it really is just very tiny beads of pasta. Couscous is typically made from semolina wheat flour that is moistened and shaped; there also is an Israeli version (p'titim or in the U.S., simply "Israeli style couscous") that is larger (more like Italian orzo)." (return)

OK. I've told you my favorite places, and other readers have given theirs; now it's your turn to add something to the guide. Do you have a favorite place that you always go to? Whether it's a 4-star extravaganza or that little hole in the wall that serves your basic meat and potatoes kind of meal, Tom's Guide wants to know about it. Click here to suggest a restaurant of your own.

 

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